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Easy DIY Guide To Install Baseboard Around Obstacles & Interference

To give your house a clean and finish touch, you want to do some easy installation in your baseboard corners. And suddenly you realize that you never did it before. Giving the baseboard a finishing touch at the corners where there are obstructions and interferences is important.

Well, no worries. I’m here to help you with some easy DIY installation methods. 

So, the thing is how to install baseboard around obstacles & interference? 

You can easily install a baseboard around obstacles by using some tools and techniques. Take the measurements, and make the cuts using those closest measurements. Using glue, activator, wood filler, and paints get the desired outlook that you’re looking for. 

The good news is I’ll share with you the whole easy DIY installation process. Using the process, you don’t get into any hassle as a beginner. So, read the article till the end.

So, let’s begin!

Items Used For Baseboard Installation

Here are some tools and items you will require during the whole process. Try to put these things together at once. It won’t make you into any trouble later. 

DIY Tools
1.Baseboard Super Glue With Activator
2.Speed Square
3.Carpenter Steel Square
4.WORX Oscillating Tool
5.2.5 GAL Shop Vacuum
6.25’ Tape Measure
7.10” Miter Saw
8.Freud Blade 10” 80T with 5/8 Arbor
9.Franklin Stud Finder
10.Mini Hacksaw
11.ELMERS Wood Filler
12.Box Knife Blade
13.WORX Cordless Brad Nailer
14.18 Gauge Brad Nails 2”
15.Assorted Sandpaper
16.Sanding Block Sponge
17.3” Masking Tape
18.DAP Stretch Caulking
19.Caulking Gun
20.4” Sponge Roller
21.Paint Brush Kit
22.Nitrile Gloves

Are you wondering where to get these items? Check out some of the tools from here:

Baseboard Super Glue With ActivatorCheck Current Price
Speed SquareCheck Current Price

Baseboard Easy Installation Guide 

You may have an obstacle that is going across or through your wall. You want to install baseboards over. But you also have an existing baseboard that is cut incorrectly. 

You don’t need any professional touch-up to get rid of this situation. The process is quite simple, much like fixing gaps between the baseboard and floor.

I have built up an easy DIY installation method. You can do it all along with using an extra pair of hands.

Step 1: Find the Studs and Mark the Cut 

Before fixing the baseboard. Take a stud finder. Find the studs where they’re located. Mark them using some masking tape. 

Use a speed square to mark the baseboard to cut up and trim it down. Or you can use a steel carpenter square. It’ll be a lot easier than using those speed squares. 

Mark out a straight line where you’re going to make the cut on the existing baseboard.

Step 2: Carefully Cut the Existing Baseboard

Make the cut carefully using an oscillating tool through the baseboard. This is a perfect tool for these types of cuts where you can’t really get any other cutter to cut this. And it’ll make the job a lot easier.

To remove the dust that is going to generate from the cut. You can use a vacuum to get rid of that dust. 

The baseboard should have been cut with a 46-degree angle. The next baseboard coming right through it.

Step 3: Take the Closet Measurement

Here you have two options. You can use a tape measure. You need to make sure that you get the closest measurement. For this, you have to use up to the 16th of an inch measurement. 

Another option is where you don’t have to use a tape measure. You can take your pieces of scrap baseboard a little. 

Lay it up against the wall and mark it from there. Draw a map so that you can be sure of all the measurements. 

It’s good practice to lay and draw all your pieces. Grant your tiny scrap pieces to figure out which pieces actually go with your measurements.

Step 4: Cut the Baseboard Using the Miter Saw

Use the 46-degree angle on your miter saw. It’ll give you a nice tight outside corner. 

After making the cut the very first cut is about an inch and an eighth long. Measure from the inside corner of your baseboard. Mark it and then flip it over to the miter saw. You need to cut it to zero degrees which is a perfectly straight cut. 

Don’t forget to double-check and make sure the measurements are up to an inch underneath. 

Step 5: Locate the Next Stud and Cut Again

With your stud finder, locate the next stud over. Because you may not have a long enough piece of a baseboard. Mark with masking tape where you’re going to connect the next joining piece. 

Measure out how much you need. And you need to mark out which is around 21 inches. 

Place my miter saw into the 46, 45.5 to make that cut. Measure again on the inside corner of your baseboard. Again mark the piece that you need. 

As I said, it’s a good practice tip and trick for you. Draw out where that angle is. It’ll make you safe to end up wasting any baseboards. 

Finally, make the cut and this should measure out to the piece that you need again. Made a 45-degree cut. 

It’ll make sure the next piece that you join will actually have much structural strength. You can go from 15 to 20 degrees. But it’s totally up to you.

Step 6: Cut the Rest of the Baseboards

For three-quarters cut, it’s really small of a measurement three-quarters of an inch. 

You have to use the speed square to make that line from that degree angle. Then measure three-quarters of an inch. Again the length of this 2/4  (two by four) going through the wall is three and five-eighths inch.

From here, you don’t need to make it exactly three and five-eighths. Give it at least a quarter of extra. Just to have a buffer. Give it a few inches for it to move around. And not exactly a tight fit. 

Mark out the layers that you’re going to cut. For good practice. you can either use your oscillating tool.

Step 7: Two Ways to Trim the Edges 

This is actually method number one. You can use your oscillating tool to cut this cut-out. But you might have a little bit of rough cutting on the edges. 

Right there be very careful and have a steady hand when you’re cutting this. Then with your oscillating tool, just trim out those inside edges. And make it really clean and smooth. 

Another other option is you can either use the miter saw. I prefer this method better because it makes a cleaner cut. And it’s a lot easier than for the remaining line there. 

Use your oscillating tool again. Make sure you practice with steady hands. Be very careful because this thing will jump around if you don’t control it correctly. Again clean up the inside of those corners. It should look nice and clean.

Step 8: Dry Fit to Cross Check

You need to place the baseboard over just like that to dry fit it. It should fit nicely over the interference. 

A quick tip, always dry-fit your materials before actually gluing them. It’ll help you to know exactly where it’s going to fit. This way you can install the baseboard like a professional without any gaps.

Step 9: Use Glue and Activator 

It’s time for gluing. So, you can use 2P-10 glue and 2P-10 activator. Just glue around the perimeter. 

Make sure you use a drop cloth or anything when you’re spraying the activator. Because you don’t want this stuff on your floor. 

Take your time when you’re piecing this together. Right when it makes contact, you have three seconds before this glue hardens. It pretty much is a permanent bond. 

If you try to take it apart. It’ll rip apart your MDF or your baseboard. So be very careful. Take your time to make it look nice again. 

You may find some little gaps on the attaching baseboard. But that’s fine, you can close that off later.

Step 10: Use Brad Nailer Trim Work

Take your brad nailer. You can use a nail gun by Works. I actually love this one. It’s very light and it’s fast. It’s fairly quiet rather than using an air brad nailer. And there you have it. 

Step 11: Close the Little Gaps

On the brad nail, you will find some gaps right there. This is the part where you need to use the wood filler. I mostly use Woodville filler by Elmer’s. 

For a little mini trowel trick. You can use a box knife blade. That’s one of the tricks the trader likes to use your wood filler. And squeeze it onto those nail holes and those gaps. Then use the box knife blade. 

It’s a lot easier to use than using a trowel. And it’s a lot faster and more convenient to spread that wood filler in. This way you can also remove and fill the anchor holes of drywall.

Use your fingers to put filler on your fingers. Put it over those little gaps and those mini tiny cracks right there. 

It’s fine because later you’re going to be sanding this in a little bit. Don’t overdo it. It’ll help not to take much time sanding it later.

Step 12: Sand the Filler

Take and drop off the area with some masking tape that you’re gonna be sanding. I will recommend using 600 grit sandpaper for this finisher. 

Take your time. You know where all the bumps and the highs and lows are. It’ll help you to stand in that area. 

Remove those masking tapes. And make sure you clean around this area really well with your vacuum. 

Step 13: Cover The Gaps With an Extra Piece Of Baseboard

Use the extra pieces of baseboard just about an inch in height. Just so that you can cover the rest of those gaps and make it look like a nice flow onto my baseboard. 

I like to use bad stretch caulking on every type of my baseboard. Ensure that you dab use your fingers to get that excess. 

You can dab any extra in your finger on a wet rag. You really don’t get this all over your fingers. The rest just caulk around those gaps that you see. Including this tiny little gap right there where those two baseboards meet. 

Step 14: Paint Using Brush and Roller  

Use some masking tapes under the baseboard. You can use your brush to paint. Use the brush first to get the paint on. 

Finish it off with a paint roller. Because you may not like having those brush strokes. I like to have that nice kind of sprayed look using this roller. It’s totally up to you. This is just my method. 

Make sure that you apply the paint really well. Do double coats if required. After the paint, you won’t see the wood filler gap where you actually fill that wood in to make it invisible

Step 15: Finishing

After the paint, you can now take off the masking tape. You might have some paint residue.  Use a toothpick to clean off the paint residue. And you’re almost done.

Give attention to the details. And this will be the final look of the baseboard around obstacles & interference. 


Do baseboards have to be mitered?

For a seamless appearance, one baseboard should be coped to fit. Into the other baseboard where two walls meet inside a corner. To join an inside corner, use a miter cut. This method won’t look as smooth and will ultimately require more polishing.

What degree do you cut baseboards?

The easiest thing for a lot of DIYers is to install baseboard moldings. It’ll be in the inner corners of the room. With miter joints with 45-degree miter cuts to each neighboring piece of molding.

How far off the floor should the baseboard be? 

Most contractors will request to give between ⅜ and ½ inch of room. It requires replacing the baseboards without flooring in place. It’ll be between the subfloor and the baseboards. This will provide them with the space they need to tuck your flooring behind the baseboards.

Wrapping Up

That is the easiest DIY to install baseboard around obstacles & interference. This way you can get that finishing touch. You will get rid of the extra baseboards that used to bother you. 

Always be cautious using the tools and also while making the cut. It’ll erase the risk of wasting baseboards. 

Don’t forget to give it a try. Till then take care!