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How to Install the Baseboard Corners: Only by 10 Steps!

You are planning to install a baseboard corner for your new house. It’s pretty normal to be confused about it as you haven’t done it before. It’s not that tough if you have all of the necessary components.

So, how to install the baseboard corner like a pro? 

To install the baseboards, you must first complete a few tasks. First, you need to prepare all the measurements, numbering and marking them. Then you should check the baseboard height and create a fit accordingly.  Attach the baseboard using some nails and identify the outside corners. 

I just talked about some initial steps above. If you scroll down, my friend, you will find all the steps in a detailed way. It will clear up all your confusion, and you can install the baseboard like a pro. 

What are you waiting for? Just scroll down and find all your answers. 

How Do You Install Baseboards Like a Professional?

If you love the appearance of a foundation that is at least 6 inches high. And 12 to 34 inches thick, topped with a distinct, strongly contoured cap molding. 

You need to do it when beginning from scratch. If you’re renovating a property with nice baseboards, you should strive to match the new trim to what’s currently there.

It is not difficult to build a new baseboard that is the same height as the original. But, acquiring a cap casing that has the exact profile may be problematic. Especially in an older property.

Advance Planning

Measure each straight piece of the wall and round up to the next whole foot. Measurement is divisible by two to estimate the quantity of baseboard material required. Bring the wood inside a week before installation to acclimatize it. 

Baseboard Installation Steps

This procedure will be completed in 10 phases, which are listed below. Nobody will be able to tell you’re doing this for the first time. If you follow each step precisely.

Let’s go through each step one by one:

Step 1. Prepare by Measuring, Numbering, and Marking

  • Panels that meet at the outside edges should be a few inches longer. It will be higher than the wall in order to allow miter cuts.
  • Every board should have a number printed on the back. The exact number should be inscribed on the wall where the board will be placed.
  • Examine and name the wall studs; these will offer a stable basis for attaching the baseboard.

Step 2. Determine the Baseboard Height

  • Set a 4-foot level against the wall to examine the level of the floor. If not, move the scale across the floor till it is at its lowest point. Nail a leftover piece of baseboard to the wall at this stage. Then check the gaps between the baseboard and the drywall.
  • Use the top of this baseboard section as a guide to draw horizontal marks. Every several feet at the same level on the walls around the room.
  • Put a straight edge around the edges of the room to show. Then the top sections of all the baseboards should fall once they’ve been installed.
  • Start by placing the first board against the wall, and leveling it. Also, secure it with a nail or two.

Step 3. Create a Tight Fit

  • Choose your arrows now. Point them to span the vertical distance between both the chalk line and any of the board’s upper corners.
  • Place the chalk on the baseboard first. Then tip on the ground without altering the compass’s leg spread. Move the compass along the board’s length while maintaining the points properly straight.
  • Mark over the scratch line using a round cutter set to a 2- to 5 ° angle. With the sliced face facing the wall.
  • Trim the beveled edge to the line using a block plane. As you put the scribed baseboard on the wall. Make sure that the top edge matches the chalk line you scratched in Step 2.

Step 4. Attach the Wall Using Nails

  • Install the scribe baseboard. You should double-check if there are any gaps in the baseboards.
  • Next, at each screw point, pound two 8d finish screws into the board. At a slightly lower setting along the top and bottom edges. To avoid damaging the wood, use a nail set to press the nail heads. It will be below the ground.
  • Attach one end of the board to the inner side, then write a vertical line. Along the backside of the board, directing the chalk toward the outer corner’s edge. Put the miter position on the board’s top.
  • Remove the selected board and place the board. That will create the other half of the miter against the adjacent wall. Mark in the same way.

Step 5. Identify Outside Corner Joints

  • Connect one end of the board tightly against the inner corner. And at the other end, draw a horizontal line down the backside of the board. Directing the pencil to the external corner’s border.
  • Mark the miter direction by drawing a line across the top of the board.
  • Select the chosen board and place it against the next wall. To make the second half of the miter.

Step 6. Miter Joints on the Outside Corners

  • Using a compound miter saw set to 45 degrees, cut each miter slightly outside the line. This enables fine-tuning of the joint.
  • Return both boards to the wall and examine the joint. If you feel like the wood sides aren’t close enough, return to the saw blade. Instead of that use a wedge plane to shape them.

Step 7. Cut Out the Biscuit Slots

  • To guarantee a tight fit, join the two sections of an outside miter junction. Using glue and Number 10 compressed-wood biscuits. Make two pencil lines across the joint by holding the two boards tightly against the outer corner. The markers should be evenly spaced between and from the board’s edges.
  • Grab the planks and change the fence height. To make the cut closer to the rear side of the boards. 
  • After matching the tool’s centerline with a mark, plunge-cut a groove into the face of the cut. Replicate the procedure at the next mark.

Step 8. Put Together the Biscuit Joints

  • Pour carpenter’s glue all the way around the edge of the miter cut half into both slots. Then, slide one biscuit through each hole on a single board to connect them. 
  • Attach the wall boards again, this time using two 8d screws on every side of the miter. 
  • Among these nails, place a 4D finishing screw through the link. And through the end grain of the surrounding piece. A screw set should be used to tap nail heads into the wood.
  • Build a scarf junction by mitering the ends in opposing directions. At a stud where two straight boards meet. Adhesive and connect the miters before nailing them into the stud via the connection piece. 
  • Attach the baseboard edges to the wall at the inner corners by putting them firmly.

Step 9. Hammer the Cap Molding

  • Keep in mind that the rear of the cap molding fits tightly against the wall. Before installing it on the wall by the stud. To fasten it, insert an 8d nail into the thicker parts of the molding through each stud.
  • When there are spaces behind the coving but no studs to screw into it. Attach the coving to the studs using construction glue as shown above. To hold the molding in place while the glue dries, attach it to the wall. 

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Step 10. Sanded Cap Molding

  • Cope the connections to achieve a snug fit where the cap molding attaches at the inside corners.
  • Mark and cut the outer corners to miter them, as shown in Step 4. Using biscuits or nails to attach miter joints risks splitting the thin molding.
  • As in Step 8, create a scarf joint where two caps meet on a long wall.
  • Straighten all of the mitered corners with fine sandpaper to remove any rough points. The baseboard trim has been prepared and is now ready to be painted.
  • Even if you see gaps after it is painted, don’t worry. You can fix the gaps in the baseboard just by following a few steps.


How do you cut baseboard corners?

Most DIYers choose to fit baseboard moldings on the inner corners of the room. Using miter joints 45-degree mitered cuts are made to each neighboring piece of molding. When these corners are joined together, they form a 90-degree angle.

Do you paint the baseboards before putting them up?

If the baseboards have not yet been placed, paint them before installing them. Slight damage to the paint finish is to be anticipated during installation. With the majority of the painting completed, you’ll just need to make minor touch-ups. After installing the baseboards.

How do you cover wide gaps in baseboard corners?

Fill in the corners with acrylic latex caulk, particularly if the baseboard is molded. Fill a caulking gun with caulk and point the tip towards the lowest section of the gap. Squeeze the trigger while dragging the tip toward the top. By flattening the bead with your finger, you may tool or smooth it.

Sum Up 

If you read the whole article then you will understand all the steps. Now you know how to install the baseboard corners. It’s not difficult but you should do it alone. 

Always take safety precautions before starting the work and plan it well. If you are still confused then you should always take professional help. It will cost a little but save your time. 

That’s all I have. Good day!